This frame was designed for AP and FPV with the idea of reducing as many vibrations to the camera as possible. The carbon tubes and rubber dampers are common parts for XAircraft frames that can be purchased at a low cost. The V shape allows cameras to be mounted above the loading pipes without the need for extended landing gear hanging beneath the frame. It opens up the space between the front arms to allow a prop-free view from the camera.
Bill of materials:
[Qty. 4] MT-2208-18 1100KV Motors
[Qty. 4] 10A Turnigy Plush ESCs
[Qty. 1] M3x8mm Bolts (20)
[Qty. 1] 18AWG Red wire
[Qty. 1] 18AWG Black Wire
[Qty. 1] 2200mAh 3S 45-50C Nano Tech LiPo
[Qty. 2] 8×4.5 Carbon Props
[Qty. 4] 300x10mm Carbon Tube (2)
[Qty. 1] 10mm Plug (4)
[Qty. 3] Rubber Dampin Rings (4)
[Qty. 1] OpenPilot CC3D
[Qty. 1] 400mW 5.8GHz Video TX
[Qty. 1] V8FR-II Receiver
(Custom frame components available here)
All parts can be assembled by applying CA glue to the inside of the carbon tubes. Applying CA accelerator to the plastic parts will help reduce bonding time.
Cut two 138mm tubes and two 122mm tubes.
Set the video transmitter heat sink into the slot and secure the receiver to the top of it using sip ties.
Secure the CC3D using four M2x8mm self tapping screws.
Choose custom mix and apply the following mixer settings in the OpenPilot GCS.
Several months after completing my original Printrbot + Upgrades, I am now introducing the latest version of my improvements. These new components address several problems with the original upgrades and they are also much stronger, easier to assemble and they require far less material and print time.
- Minimal hardware required – assembly requires 22 zip ties and nothing more.
- Fewer pieces – the bridge consists of only two pieces instead of four halves.
- Easy access – the parts are more open for easy access to clean or replace the linear bearings.
- Increased strength – components are now much stronger where they need to be.
- Raised bed levelers to prevent interference with y-axis pulley.
- Improved bearing tolerances (Should work with LM12UU or LME12UU linear bearings)
- Thicker extruder mounting plate, no warping.
- Increased clearance between extruder mount and heated bed.
- Extended motion of the extruder mount with an adjustable x-axis end stop.
- Better alignment of the adjustable z-axis end stop with added nut trap.
- Designed for GT2 belts and pulleys.
Downloadable model here.
Available for purchase here.
Begin by cleaning excess plastic from the holes and corners of each part with a hobby knife. Assemble the three piece motor mount by aligning the pieces into the slots on the back of the left bracket. Only apply superglue to these three pieces, do not glue the completed motor mount to the back of the bracket. Completely assemble the six piece extruder mount with superglue.
Assembly the right bracket by securing the linear bearings and z-nut with five zip ties. Insert the pulley bolt and 10mm spacer before bolting the pulley into place.
Assembly the left bracket by securing the linear bearings and z-nut with five zip ties.
Secure the linear bearings to the extruder mount using four zip ties. Next mount the extruder and the 40mm fan into place. Feed the wires through the hole to the back of the mount.
Slide the left bracket onto the rods and bolt the x-axis stepper motor with pulley to the motor mount. Align the motor mount to the back of the bracket and pull through four zip ties around the x-axis smooth rods. It is not necessary to glue the motor mount to the back of the left bracket.
Complete the installation by sliding the extruder mount onto the x-axis smooth rods and securing the right bracket to the rods.
Secure the belt to the rear of the exruder mount. Note that the belt must be fastened to the bottom side of the loop. This requires that the travel of the x-axis stepper motor be reversed. To do so, locate the connection for the x-axis stepper motor to the printrboard. Remove any two wires from the connector and replace them in reverse order.
Bill of Materials:
[Qty. 1] Turnigy 9X (no module)
[Qty. 1] FrSky 2.4GHz DJT Module
[Qty. 1] 5.8GHz 200mw wireless video system
[Qty. 1] 2650mAh TX LiPo Battery
[Qty. 1] LED Backlight kit
The first step in assembling the ground station is to prepare the video receiver. I chose to purchase the 200mW 5.8GHz video system from Hobbyking. After removing the enclosure, desolder one of the 2.5mm jacks. Wire two 3-pin female connectors in parallel to the video, gnd and vin connections. One of these connectors will serve as the source for the monitor and the other as power from the transmitter to the video receiver and monitor.
Remove the back panel from the 9X transmitter and locate the power and ground pins. The 12V pin will always receive power directly from the battery, but power pin is only powered when the transmitter is switched on. Run a male 3-pin cable with power and ground outside of the transmitter. This cable will plug into and power the video receiver and monitor.
For the LCD Monitor I chose to purchase this 7″ LCD from Amazon. After opening the monitor enclosure remove the driver from the adhesive back of the LCD. Also remove the supplied input cable and solder three wires from AV1, GND and 12V. Terminate these wires with a male 3 pin connector.
Reassemble the monitor enclosure and connect the 3 pin connectors from the transmitter and monitor to the receiver. To mount the LCD and receiver to the transmitter I have designed a plastic mount.